It was definitely worth it for me.

I previously had a Ender 3v2 and an Ender 5 Plus and the E5P had constant issues in which I tried to upgrade it step by step to address those issues. However, never really could fix all of them. The last issues I just gave up on was the bed. While it worked fine, I never really could get a good first layer on the bed, when I calibrated the Z-offset correctly on one side, it wasn't good on the other side because the nozzle was too far away from the bed. I rarely could get the bed mesh range under 0.4mm which was quite annoying. But smaller prints, it printed well.

Last year in October, I decided to build a Voron and got the 2.4 LDO kit for 350mm. Took a bit of time to get it all assembled and some hiccups here and there but since it is up and running there is really only one issue that I haven't quite figured out yet (the A motor sometimes doesn't want to turn, after re-plugging the cable and restarting, it works without issues).

But I could print PLA, ABS and ABS-GF on it so far. I am also currently building the Armor Turtle AFC (filament changer) for it.

But 770€ for a 250mm V2.4 sounds very low to me so I would assume that it is 2nd hand. This could be fine but keep in mind that the printer also could have issues, issues you might not know about where they would be coming from because you simply bought the machine as a whole. So, identifying the problem could be a bit annoying.

Other than that, I am really happy with mine, I usually get 0.1mm difference in the bed mesh range (running a voron tap as probe), the print speed is great (but I also didn't optimise it and just used the speed settings from the default profile in Orca Slicer)

Voron 2.4 and a Bambu here. My voron is rock solid at this point, but definitely more work into it. It’s big and warming up the plate definitely makes me less likely to use it over the Bambu. I’ve learned more about everything from the voron though, so the question is, what’s your goal?

Does the 2.4 have auto z calibration? That is what really makes a "set and forget" machine when you switch nozzle sizes and such and it with auto adjust.

With my prusa MK3, I calibrate the z offset every time I switch filaments and recalibrate every time I switch nozzles which takes a lot of active time.

Look on github for Rappetor's SV08 mainline repository. You'll need a new mmc or sd card (both are ok) and a "five bucks" STLink programmer, but then it is quite easy to put mainline klipper on your sv08. The mainboard is a cb1 clone with the "main" ST microcontroller for driving the steppers on the same board (for cost reduction, probably)

That's the prerequisite for using a probe. like a btt eddy on a SV08, for example.

Other than the SV08 has a few issues like super noisy board fan which can be very easily be taken care of. (Funnily software control of the fan is possible, but just not done in the default firmware)

My mods are mainline klipper, btt eddy, new (printed) extruder shroud with better airflow, a microswiss hotend and a second camera (USB webcam for second viewing angle and better resolution).

Out of the box the SV08 has a bit of problems keeping a consistent Z offset due to missing temperature calibration for the probe. More reliable solutions (ported from voron) like klicky are available. I chose eddy - but haven't perfectly tuned it in, either. I'll try the eddy-ng firmware (github) next week.

Thanks! I am going to keep those all in my back pocket for when the honeymoon of not having a $99 "box o' parts" Voxelab wears off, though I feel a little guilty for never installing that BLTouch clone now.

I haven't printed much with the Sovol yet. So far, the main things I'm running into are bed adhesion (the old standby of a washable glue stick is helping), and I've had a couple of vertically oriented parts get knocked off the bed, and slowing down quite a bit helped.

Mine does.

Probably most of the builds do.
But you got to keep in mind, every Voron is unique. It is not a 100-a-day from the factory kind of product.

The reliability is largely dependent on how well it's built. I have a 0.2 and a 2.4 and both have been quite reliable overall, but I did have some issues with my 2.4 recently where the frame came out of alignment (I didn't tighten the screws enough when I built it), so my z axis belts became too loose.
Assuming this will be the only capable printer you have access to, I would highly recommend printing spares of the more critical parts once you have it running. Otherwise, a catastrophic failure could lead to weeks of downtime while you try to source new parts.

Good point, thanks!

If you buy a Voron you need to be aware that everything the printer does it does because of YOU!

Any problems that arise will be due to misconfiguration, bad assembly, no proper tuning... But when you get it to print amazing results that is YOUR accomplishment.

I'll keep that in mind.